OUCC Proceedings 11 (1983)

Pozu Jorcada Blanca - Rigging

OUCC Proceedings 11 Contents

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John Singleton and Graham Naylor

Italics mark optional or off-main-route pitches

Pitch

Name

Rope

Belays

12 m

Entrance

14 m

Long tapes and wires to boulders

20 m

Snow Joke

20 m ladder
30m rope (used on next pitch)

2 bolts

4 m

 

5 m

1 bolt

 

Traverse on Ledge

10 m ladder

1 bolt

38 m

Is Necessary

40 m

1 bolt and long tape to flake. 1 long rope protector

8 m

Pendulum

10 m

2 bolts

5 m

Pendulum (alternative)

5 m ladder

Long wire to flake

9 m

The Chair

25 m

Tape to flake and 1 bolt

13 m

Chair II

"

Long wire to flake

18 m

Mistral I

19 m

1 bolt; short belay to knob

20 m

Mistral II

23 m

2 bolts: Y hang

34 m

Mistral III

36 m

Long tape to boulder and 1 bolt

10 m

Mistral IV

11 m

2 bolts

10 m

Choss pitch

Two 5m ladders

Tape to large flake; wire belay for second ladder at ledge

 

Traverse: Walk on the Wild Side

10 m

1 bolt at upstream end; medium length tape through thread at other

6 m

Martin's bypass (alternative to WotWS)

7m ladder

Long wire to flake

18 m

Marble Bathroom

23 m

Tape round knob at end of rift; 1 bolt rebelay; deviator 6 m from bottom

8 m

Bathroom Step I

10 m

1 bolt and tape to flake; protector needed

12 m

Bathroom Step II

14 m

1 bolt and long tape to flake

9 m

Bathroom Step III

10 m

2 bolts; protector needed

55 m

The Font

57 m

2 bolts and short tape

8 m / 5 m

Hammer Death

15 m

1 bolt and long tape round flake; one bolt rebelay

15 m

Stead's Braille Blunder

20 m

Long tapes to boulder pile

22 m

One Step Beyond

23 m

Short tape and 1 bolt

10 m

One Stead Beyond

14 m

Short tape to natural, then traverse down to two bolts

15 m

King Pitch

20 m

Short tape to naturals; 5 m traverse and then long tape round huge rock

5 m

Pyramid Pitch I

5 m ladder

Long wire

20 m

Pyramid Pitch II

22 m

Long tape; long wire

10 m

Squelch !

10 m ladder
12 m rope

Long wire and long tape

60 m

The Sphinx

63 m

Long wire and long tape round huge knob

28 m

Wallop !

33 m

Short tape; 3 m traverse to two bolts; deviator; 1 protector needed

13 m

Tantalus

15 m

2 long tapes

10 m

Pol Pot

25 m

2 bolts; 1 bolt at base of pitch for traverse

8 m

Delta Pitch

10 m

1 bolt; 1 medium tape

10 m

The Vortex

12 m ladder
12 m rope

Long tape; long wire to flakes

8 m

Armageddon Pitch

10 m

2 bolts